Note that it shows the splash shields for a hardtop are shown being 21" long on the right hand side and 19-1/2" long on the left hand side, and that the convertible seals are modified from the hardtop ones by cutting them slightly shorter and into two pieces with a 2-1/2"-long one for the outboard ends and a 15-1/2"-inch section for the inboard right hand side and 14-1/16"-long left hand inner one (there is a gap where the convertible rear deck lid hinges are located). Earliest reference I have is from the MPC revision pages printed in February 1961, which has a listing for the splash shields. meaning a person has to dig into period Master Parts Catalogs published prior to 1969 for info. The 'Blue Bible' is lacking in information on body parts, partly because it comes from a printing in 1969 which dropped a lot of parts that were taken out of inventory by that time. Several of the 'Bird parts houses use the 'basic' number that's often seen in parts catalog exploded diagrams, then add their own prefix/suffix in part to avoid running afoul with Ford's legal department.ġ961-63 Rear Bumper Assembly (from 1960-64 Ford Car Parts & Illustrations Catalog-Illustrations) The '63' that's in front of the 'basic' number I've given is a body style prefix and would indicate it's for a T-bird hardtop, while '76' would be for a convertible (there are differences between the two). Following this 4-digit prefix there will be two numbers added to the beginning of the 'basic' part number. The part number you'll need to focus on should be similar in format to C1SB-63403B34-A, which is a body part number: the first four digits are for the decade/year/model/engineering section responsible for its design, meaning this could be C1S (for 1961 T-bird), C2S ('62 'Bird) or C3S ('63 'Bird), with the fourth character in the prefix either being a 'B' (Body Engineering) or another letter (if you see a 'Z' that's what's used in the parts catalogs versus the engineering designation, which is what you'll see in the assembly manuals). If you can be patient, I might be able to pull an image from a parts catalog later this weekend which shows where it goes. This seal/flap should show up in the Body/Trim assembly manual on a page related to the rear end of the car and bumper installation. Those shields have a channel on one edge to slip over the ledge: they were originally held in place with metal clips pinched into place, which are virtually impossible to find new or used in decent condition. Having someone assist you in lowering/pulling the bumper assembly away from the car once the fasteners are managed will be helpful, and don?t forget to disconnect the wires to the license plate lights, back-up lights, and the tail/brake lights.Picture of the shield would be helpful to confirm what it is and where it's used, but I suspect you're describing the rubber flaps that attach to the sheet metal 'ledge' that's welded to the back of the body just below where the top of the rear bumper is. It is best to soak everything several times over the course of a week with WD40, PB Blaster, Kroil, or similar rust dissolver.ĭepending on stubbornness, skill, available tools, determination, and rust levels, you may have to torch some of the fasteners on the outer brackets and replace with new? which I would do anyway. The outer brackets are a pain, each held to the box sections (frame?) just inboard of the muffler, by two nuts/bolts. The center section is attached with studs and nuts accessible from within the trunk flanking the filler neck tunnel, as well as the nuts directly below (vertical) at the lower edge of the bumper. The rear bumper assembly (Center Section, Q?s, and brackets) needs to be removed as a unit.
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